How to Select a Trailer Hitch
Match hitch class to the door sticker and the product page before you shop a heavier trailer than the vehicle can safely tow.
Watch on YouTube
Already have a factory hitch on your truck or SUV in Canada? You do not automatically need to rip it off. Plenty of owners keep the OEM receiver for a bike rack, a cargo carrier, or light trailering that stays inside the door-sticker numbers. Other owners upgrade when the factory tube is the wrong class, the wrong size, damaged, or missing the capacity they need for a real trailer. Here is the keep-versus-replace walk from Lots of Parts, with free shipping on every cover and lock.

Start with what the factory hitch is rated for and what you actually do with it. A stock Class 3 tube in good shape is often enough for racks and light trailers inside the door sticker. Upgrade when the OEM tube is Class 1 and you need a two inch rack, when rust or collision damage has thinned the receiver, or when a CURT hitch for your year offers a cleaner fitment or higher capacity. Wiring still matters either way. A receiver without lights is only half a towing plan.
The lower number still wins for real towing.
Cosmetic salt film is different from flaking welds.
Bike racks may be fine. Heavy trailers may need a different class.
Keep or replace, lights still need a working plug.
These clips come from the official CURT YouTube channel (@curtmfg). Use them before you open a product page.
If an embed does not load, use the YouTube link under each video.
Match hitch class to the door sticker and the product page before you shop a heavier trailer than the vehicle can safely tow.
Watch on YouTubeIf you replace an OEM hitch, confirm the CURT product page still lists your year and configuration before you cut fascia or torque bolts.
Watch on YouTubeFactory hitches sometimes ship without a harness. Plan a four-flat or seven-way before the first night tow.
Watch on YouTubeMatch shank size to the receiver tube, then level the trailer with drop or rise once the hitch is on.
Watch on YouTubeUse the class guide when you are deciding whether the factory tube still matches the trailer or rack you actually run, then shop covers and locks with free shipping.
Open the guideWorth knowing. Keeping a healthy factory hitch is fine. Replacing a wrong-class or damaged tube is also fine. Match the job.




| Topic | What we tell shoppers |
|---|---|
| Keep when | The factory tube matches the job, ratings, and tube size you need, and the steel is still healthy. |
| Replace when | Wrong class, wrong tube size, collision damage, heavy rust, or a cleaner CURT fitment for your year. |
| Bike versus tow | Racks are lighter asks. Real trailers still bow to the door sticker and the hitch stamp. |
| Wiring | Keep or replace, lights still need a working plug before night towing. |




In short: read the factory stamp and the door sticker, inspect the steel, match the tube to the job, and plan wiring whether you keep or replace.