How to Select a Trailer Hitch
Trailer hitch class is about towing a trailer or carrying a rack behind the tow vehicle, not about dinghy-towing a car behind a motorhome.
Watch on YouTube →Looking at a dinghy base plate or flat-tow kit on a Canada product page and wondering if that is your trailer hitch? It is not. A trailer hitch sits on the tow vehicle so you can pull a trailer or hang a rack. A dinghy or flat-tow base plate mounts on the vehicle being towed behind a motorhome so a tow bar can pull that car or SUV with all four wheels on the ground. Mixing those up is a common product-page trap, especially when SUV pages also list RV flat-tow harnesses next to hitch cards. Use this page to separate the jobs, then open hitch class help or factory-hitch keep-or-replace when you are actually shopping a rear receiver.
All four videos are from the official CURT YouTube channel (@curtmfg). They cover trailer hitch habits. Use them when your job is towing a trailer, not when you are building a dinghy tow setup.
If an embed does not load, use the YouTube link under the card.
Trailer hitch class is about towing a trailer or carrying a rack behind the tow vehicle, not about dinghy-towing a car behind a motorhome.
Watch on YouTube →A rear trailer hitch install is a different job than mounting a dinghy base plate on the front of a towed vehicle.
Watch on YouTube →Trailer light wiring and dinghy-towing lighting kits are easy to mix up on product pages. Match the job before you order.
Watch on YouTube →Ball mounts belong with trailer hitches. Dinghy tow bars and base plates do not use a trailer ball the same way.
Watch on YouTube →A rear trailer hitch is for the vehicle that pulls. You bolt a CURT Class 1, Class 2, Class 3, or heavier receiver to that tow vehicle, then add a ball mount, pin, wiring, and trailer when you need to haul cargo, a boat, or a utility trailer. Door-sticker tow ratings still win over hitch marketing claims.
A dinghy or flat-tow base plate is for the vehicle that gets pulled. The base plate mounts on that dinghy vehicle so a tow bar can connect to the motorhome. That setup is not a substitute for a trailer hitch when you want to tow a trailer behind a pickup or SUV. Base plates, tow bars, and dinghy lighting kits stay in the RV flat-tow lane.
| If you want this | Shop this lane |
|---|---|
| Pull a cargo, boat, or utility trailer | Rear trailer hitch, ball mount, and trailer wiring on the tow vehicle. Start with hitch class. |
| Hang a bike rack or cargo carrier on a receiver | Still a rear trailer hitch conversation. Match receiver size and tongue weight honestly. |
| Tow a car or SUV behind a motorhome with four wheels down | Dinghy base plate, tow bar, and dinghy lighting on the towed vehicle. Not a trailer hitch. |
| Keep or replace a factory receiver already on the vehicle | Read factory hitch keep or replace before you buy another hitch carton. |
| Saw base plate language on an SUV hitch page | Treat that as a mix-up risk. Confirm whether the SKU is a rear hitch or a dinghy base plate before checkout. |
Some SUV and crossover pages show RV flat-tow harnesses or dinghy kits near hitch SKUs. An RV wiring harness that lights a dinghy vehicle is not the same carton as a trailer four-flat for towing a utility trailer. If the title says base plate, dinghy, or flat tow, you are not looking at a rear trailer hitch even when the same brand logo is on both boxes.
Another mix-up is treating a front-mounted base plate like a hitch receiver for a ball mount. Base plates are for tow-bar arms. They do not give you a Class 3 two inch tube for a trailer ball. If your goal is a cottage trailer, stay on hitch class and vehicle buyer guides instead of dinghy hardware.
These in-stock CURT SKUs are dinghy or flat-tow related. They are labeled here so you do not confuse them with rear trailer hitches. Confirm vehicle fitment on each product card. We do not invent base plate years, and we do not treat these as hitch substitutes.
If the job is towing a trailer or mounting a receiver rack, open what hitch class do I need, then use the vehicle buyer guide that matches your door sticker. If a factory hitch is already welded or bolted on, start with factory hitch keep or replace before you spend on a second receiver. For wiring that lights a trailer, use the wiring harness guide and four pin versus seven pin pages.
Receiver on the vehicle that pulls. Ball mount, pin, trailer wiring, door-sticker ratings.
Mounts on the car or SUV being flat-towed. Tow bar connects to the motorhome.
CURT hitch and CURT base plate logos look related. Read the title for hitch versus base plate.
Hitch class guide when you need a receiver. Factory keep-or-replace when one is already there.
Trailer behind a tow vehicle, or car flat-towed behind a motorhome. Those are different carts.
Hitch and Class mean rear receiver. Base plate and dinghy mean flat-tow hardware.
Hitch class or factory keep-or-replace for trailers. Base plate cards only for dinghy setups.
Start with hitch class, then open the vehicle buyer guide that matches your door sticker.
Open hitch class guide →Factory hitch keep or replace when a receiver is already on the vehicle.
Wiring harness guide for trailer lights, not dinghy lighting alone.
Ball mount guide when the hitch tube is sorted.
CURT dinghy base plate and lighting cards linked above are live on Lots of Parts for Canadian shipping when the SKU shows available. They are not trailer hitches. Confirm fitment on each product page. We do not invent dinghy SKUs, and we do not treat base plates as hitch substitutes.