How to Select a Trailer Hitch
Receiver class and capacity still come first. Chains and hooks are the backup path after the hitch and coupler are chosen honestly.
Watch on YouTubeSafety chains are the backup if a coupler lets go. On most receiver hitches you hook them to the hitch side loops or to dedicated chain hooks, not around the ball. This Canada parts-counter page covers hitch loops versus dedicated hooks, S-hooks versus clevis, how long is long enough, and how chains sit beside a pin, clip, and coupler latch. We will not invent legal cutoffs.
All four videos are from the official CURT YouTube channel (@curtmfg). Use them for hitch class, install habits, wiring basics, and ball-mount height so chain-hook decisions sit beside the rest of a safe tow plan, not as a lone hardware guess.
If an embed does not load, use the YouTube link under the card.
Receiver class and capacity still come first. Chains and hooks are the backup path after the hitch and coupler are chosen honestly.
Watch on YouTubeAnything you insert still needs a pin. Chains do not replace hitch hardware or a latched coupler.
Watch on YouTubeTrailer lights still need a plug-test habit. Chains do not fix a dark trailer or a bad ground.
Watch on YouTubeBall mounts carry the coupler. Chains hook to hitch loops or dedicated hooks, not around the ball.
Watch on YouTubeMost CURT receiver hitches include chain loops or attachment points on the hitch body. Hook each chain there so the load stays on the hitch structure if the coupler opens. Dedicated chain hooks or weld-on loops exist when a trailer frame or hitch needs a cleaner attachment point. Do not wrap chains around the ball. The ball is for the coupler. Chains belong on the hitch loops or hooks.
Cross the chains under the tongue when the trailer maker or your province practice calls for it, so a dropped tongue has a cradle instead of a spear. Keep enough slack for turns without dragging on pavement. Length habits live on the how-long guide linked above. This page stays focused on where the hooks go and which hardware we stock.
S-hooks are common on lighter utility chains. Prefer latched S-hooks when you can, and seat them fully in the hitch loop. Clevis hooks with a safety latch are the stronger parts-counter answer for heavier trailers and for anyone tired of open S-hooks walking out of a loop. Snap hooks show up on some shorter assemblies. Match the hook rating to the trailer, not to a wish.
Each hook and each chain must meet or exceed the trailer gross weight the setup is meant to protect. We will not invent a provincial pound line here. Read the chain card, the hook card, and the trailer plate, then take the lowest honest number.
| Topic | What we tell shoppers |
|---|---|
| Not around the ball | Hook chains to hitch side loops or dedicated hooks. Wrapping around the ball fights the coupler and is the wrong load path. |
| Length habits | Slack for turns without dragging. Open how long should safety chains be instead of guessing in the driveway. |
| Pin and clip | Chains do not replace a hitch pin and clip. Open pin, clip, and safety chains. |
| Coupler latch | Latch the coupler, then hook the chains. Open coupler latch checklist. |
| S-hook versus clevis | Latched hooks beat open hooks. Clevis is the stronger everyday answer when trailer weight climbs. |
| No invented cutoffs | We will not invent a legal pound or length line. Follow maker ratings, the trailer plate, and local rules. |
Parts-counter summary: hook chains to hitch side loops or dedicated hooks, never wrap them around the ball, prefer latched S-hooks or clevis over open hooks, size chain and hook ratings to the trailer, keep length habits on the how-long guide, and finish the driveway with pin, clip, coupler latch, and lights. Free shipping on live CURT towing gear from Lots of Parts across Canada when the SKU shows available on this store.